Day two - we decided to go to Kyoto. Both Rob and I have been embarrassingly excited about the unbelievable smoothness of the hotel elevators, so we were really worked up about the prospect of trying out the bullet train. In person it's shiny and white and fast and oh yes, just as smooth as our elevator ride.
The countryside mostly went by as if we'd hit the fast-forward button on the remote. And in a couple of hours plus, we were in Kyoto. Here is Astro Boy Rob. This is the last photo you'll see of him for a while because it was so hot and humid that his shirt was dripping wet in minutes and not a good candidate for photos. He may reappear later, after some air conditioning and ice cream.
Kyoto has 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites, 1600 temples, 400 shrines, and loads of gardens. The guidebook says there are so many temples that you have to beware of "temple fatigue." Near the Kyoto station is Higashi Hogan-ji. In the 16th century, a breakaway sect of Buddhism called Jodo was appearing to look like a threat to the shogun in charge. So he just torched their temple and massacred the members. A different approach was taken by a shogun in the 17th century. He just gave them some land to build on. This temple is the 5th incarnation of that Higashi Hogan-ji, this version built in 1895. It is claimed to be the largest wooden structure in the world, but that claim is made by other temples too. Below is just the temple gate.
Some gorgeous detail from the gate.
I loved the contrast between the old and new. Even the temple has manga-like graphics.
We then went to Dai-ichi Asahi, a little hole-in-the-wall ramen house mentioned in my guidebook. Of course, no one we asked directions of spoke any English, but we eventually found it. They are known for their ramen and it was the best I've ever had. I think that's all they serve. Between that and the good air conditioning, we were happy campers.
We then went to the Teramachi market which is a loooong arcade of shops. We were looking for the Nishiki-koji market and thought that's where we were, but turns out we were off by a block or two. I didn't realize it until I just read through the guide book again tonight. Darn. I wanted the soy milk donuts... Next time....
Next on the list of temples was the Chion-in, head temple of the Jodo sect. The gate (below) is the largest and oldest wooden gate ever made (or so they say), and holds the remains of the master builder and his wife who both committed suicide when construction went over budget. That's me in the middle, to give some idea of the size.
The main temple dates to the 17th century.
Sometimes, if you poke around enough, and wait patiently, you can find a spot where there's no one there but you and a bunch of lily pads.
Last but not least was the trek to Kiyomizu-dera. This is the mother of all temples and as we worked our way up the narrow streets leading to it, we were pretty sure we were not the only ones with the idea to visit this particular temple on this particular day.
Here is the bright orange gate.
The temple itself was built in 1633 on top of 139 wooden pillars, using not a single nail. It is a wonder. Its size and its placement so high above the city, nestled next to the trees, makes it especially magnificent. On top of that, it's known for bestowing good fortune. There were a lot of people looking for a lot of good fortune when we were there.
This is the Jishu Shrine area where there are many opportunities to purchase good luck charms for everything from "new ties" (marriage) to "exam nations" (examinations).
At the shrine, the worshipper bows twice, and then claps twice, and then bows again. There was something happy about hearing those audible signs of worship.
On the walk down, there were little stone figures with red aprons. I have no idea what that's about, but you have to love a religion that dresses up their icons in matching outfits.
Since Japan is all about contrasts, on the way back down the hill, we had to pause to admire the fake food. It is gloriously unappetizing and so thoroughly inauthentic compared to what we'd just seen, but for some reason it just makes you love Japan all the more. From bullet train and Astro Boy, to chanting and clapping, to lucky charms and plastic desserts. We are happy to witness it all. Good fortune, indeed.
No comments:
Post a Comment